Process of making shoes.



A. H. PRENZEL.

PROCE$S OF MAKING SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED 001212, 1912.

1,1 17,086, Patented Nov. 10, 1914.

Wvmvmk.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

4 Anna: 11. PRENZE or HALIFAX, PENNSYLVANIA, ASSIGNOR TO-UNITED snzon MACKENZIE? COMPANY, OF PETERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

Specification-of Letters'Patent.

PROCES$ OF MAKING- SHOES.

Patented Nov. 10, 1914.

Application filed October 12, 1912. Serial No. 725,476.-

of Pennsylvania, have invented certain Im-- provements 1n P ocesses of Making Shoes,

"fof which the following description, in con gnection with the accompanying drawings, is

a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts'in the several figures.

..-Th1s mvention relates to processes of makshoes and is herein described and illustrated in its bearing upon the manufacture Ijlgpel'ienced in the manufactureof stitch-down shoes'have' been in shaping'the upper to the last and-securing it either. temporarily or of shoes of the .type commonly termed stitch-downs.

The principal difliculties heretofore .eX

, permanently to the sole with a flange outturnedpreparatoryto the final sole attachin'g operation. The lasting problem is substantially the same with this type of shoe whether the shoe be of the single sole type, or whether it be provided with an insole. In attempting to solve this problem and to overcome the well-known difficulties a great many processes of making stitch-down shoes, which involve lasting the upper and securing the upper to the last or to the sole to hold it in shape for the final sole attaching operation,'have been devised and a great variety of means have been utilized for securing the upper and sole in lasted position. All of these processes have proved, however, to be more or less unsatisfactory.

The dissatisfactionv with the processes and .means heretofore employed has arisen from a numberof causes. In the practice of some processes thedesire to use certain means for securing the parts inlasted position has resulted either in very imper ect shaping of the upper to the last, or in the mere conforming of the upper to the last without substantial stretching. In the practice of other processes, temporary securing means have been so located as to interfere with the proper location of the means for perma nently att'aching'the upper to the sole,

with

the result that, when the temporarysecuring means have been withdrawn, the shoe loses its lasted shape.

'lhe process'of making stitch-down shoes which has been 1n most, general use up to the present time, particularly in the manufacture of thelarger sizes of shoes has in-. volved assembling the upper and the sole upon a last, and then turning the lower marginof' the upper out and cementing it to the projecting margin. of the sole. Even bythis process it will be obvious that no proper s aping of the upper to the last can be effected, particularly in the region of the shank, and t at stretching the upper to confo'rm it. to the last is practically out of the question. i

The general object of the present invention isan improved process of making shoes. especially applicable to the manufacture of stitch-down shoes, whereby the upper may be properly conformedto the shape of the last and firmly secured in lasted osition by attaching it to the sole, and w ereby the lasting operation is so performed and the upper is so secured in lasted position as to facilitate the final sole attaching operation and to permit that the fastenings employed in the final sole attaching operation may be so located as'still further to prevent the upper from losing its lasted shape.

A particularobject of the invention is an improved process of making stitch-down shoes in which permanent, individual fastenings, preferably of the staple type, are utilized in the lasting process in such manner that they reinforce the attachment of the upper to the sole as well as secure the upper in lasted position for the final sole attaching operation.

In the accompanying drawings,--Figure 1 showing the location of the difierent parts of the shoe and the fastenings which unite these parts.

It will be understood: that the process ofv this invention may be employed in making shoes of various kinds and that the particumerely for convenience in describing and lar shoe herein shown has been selected upper upon the inside of the shoe so that the I upper will not tend to break away from the welt and-thus leave a crack-in which, dirt may accumulate. Such suppor for the up- 7 per is provided in various ways, as, for exyond the edge of the last.

ample, by providing an insole which extends .Only to the edge of the'last, or, as in the shoe -herein shown, providinga shouldered sole having" a portion'which does not extend be- Such a sole'is shown in Fig. land may be made in various ways, as, for example, by the process described in my co-pending application Serial No. 725,479, filed Got. 12', 1912, The raised portion 2 ofthis sole is cut to' such an out" line that its edge 4: lies flush with the bottom edge of the last when the sole is placed upon the last. The margin 6 projects beyond the bottom edge of the last and is'utilized in attachin the sole to the upper. Although it is pre erable to provide inside support for .the upper, such as herein shown, it will'he obvious thatso far as the process of this invention is concerned the projecting margin 6 of the sole may lie flush with the upper face of the remainder of the sole. eral of the claims the expression has been between the last 8 and a sole margin which is substantially flush with the bottom face.

into the angle between the last and the sole margin or into the angle 12 between the shoulder 6 and the marginal portion of the sole shown in Fig. 1,'and' staples are'then the margin 6. These staples are soinserted inserted in the angle '10 through the upper into-the soleeither in the angle between the last Sand the sole margin or, as in the case of shouldered soles such as shown in Fig. 1, in the angle 12' between the shoulder at and In sevtarmac edge of the last and also preferably so that the legs 16 of the staples are inclined to the face of the sole and extend beneath the last,

butpreferably not through the sole since they would tend .to discolor the finished bottom face of the sole. It will thus be seen that the legs of the staples are not only out of-the way of the succeeding fastening by which the soleis hecured to the upper. but 7 that they also extend into the sole in direc-\ tions which are substantially transverse to i the directions of pull'of the'stretched up per. v, A convenient means for performing the foregoing, operations is. the machine disclosed in my co-pending application. Serial No. 725,477 filed Oct. 12, 1.91am; Letters -Patent for improvements in machines forf lasting boots'and shoes. A p rtionof-this machine is shown in Fig. 2, theparts there shown belng'relatively movable to elfectthe forcing of the upper-intothe angle betweenthe last and the sole mar 11. A

In lasting the shoe the preferable practice,-

whenthe last is of the-type shown in the drawings, that when the'toe of'the last 1s somewhat higher than the portion immediately behind it, is first to secure the-heel .end'of. the upper to the sole, then to draw 5 ldown'the upper upon one side? of the last behind the. toe portion and secure it, to the ;sole upon this side, then to draw down the I upper upon the opposite side of the last and secure it to the sole upon-that side, after which'the upptr may be lasted through the are preferably of fine wire". v

When the heel end of the upper and the :shank andabout the toe. 'The staples used!" used in the angle between the lastandthe s'ole margin. Inasmuch as the practice of the process of this invention is the same; whether the upper beforced into the angle"? between the shoulder 4 and'the margin 6.01

counter are both to be provided. with. out' 6 'r-turned sole attaching flangesfasishown in gtlle drawings, it is preferable-tomoldthese, ip'arts'of the upper before the lasting opera; ltion. "heavy stifi'ener'is to be provided :in thetoe: 1, end of the upper, or when the upperIstock.fT- 7 Moreover when a comparatively] is comparatively heavy, ii; i glgg' etim' h advantageous to mold the toe a d gfipp I per before the lasting kiperatitm.v The shoe having b en lastedgas shown- Fig. 3, the upper is' trimmed baclcfggom' the edge of the sole a short olistaned asl-shown;

in Fig; in order that it may-notinterfere,

'inner edgeso that it will reach-down, over the edge of the upper flange :into'contact, 125

with the uppenface of the sole .margihy thereby closing up any gap whichvmight be; caused by the interposition of. the upper be tween the welt and the sole and providing a:- tight edge which may easily be finished in *the succeeding edge finishing operations.

The welt 18 is then secured to the'sole by stitches 20 which also pass through the uppending application Serial No; 863,128,filcd September 23, 1914, the said co-pending application being a division of this application.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by-Eietters Patent is 1. That improvement in the art of making shoes which'consists in assemblingupon a last an upper and a sole, progressively shap ing the upper to the'last and securing. the upper to t ie sole, as the shaping progresses, by sta les driven through the upper into the face 0 the sole which is adjacent to the last, with the bodies of the staples paralleLto the last.

2. That improvement in the art of'making shoes which consists in assembling upon a last an upper and a sole, progressively shape? ing the upper to the last and securing the upper to the sole, as the shaping progresses, by staples driven through the upper into the face of the sole which is adjacent to the'last,

' with'the bodies of the staples parallel to the last and in position to hold the upper tight against the side faces of the last.

3. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in amemblin'g upon a last an upper and a sole, progressively shaping the upper to the last and permanently securing the upper to the vsole after each shaping step by an individual fastening driven through the upper into the face of the sole which is adjacent to the last, said Pas-- tening being so located and of such construc tion that its dimensions all lie substantially in a plane parallel to the last.

4. That improvement in the art ofmaking shoes which consists in assembling upon alast an upper and a sole having a projecting margin, progressively shaping'the' upper to the last and securing he upper to t e sole, as the shaping progresses, by staples driven through the upper into the face of the sole which is adjacent to the last, and substantially in the vertex of the angle between the last and the sole, with the bodies of the staples parallel to the last.

5. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in. assembling upon a last an upper and a sole which has a margm projecting beyond the bottom edge of the the sole, as the shaping progresses, by staples .driven'thmngh the upper into the upper face of the sole in close prorimny to said bottom edge of the. last, {with the bodies of the staples parallel to said 6. That'improve'mentin the art ormakinfg shoes which consists in assembling upon a.

last an upper and, a'sole which has a margin rojecting beyond the bottom edge of the est, progressively shaping the upper to the last and forcing it into the angle betweenv the last and'the projecting sole mar '11 and;

under the overhangingportions of t e last,-

and driving staples through-the uppcr into the sole in close proximity tojthe last,:jas the shaping progresses, with the planes deter-5 mined. by "the greater dimensions of said staples extending arallel'to the edge of the last, whereby said manently in the shoe. I

. 7. That-improvement inithe art of making staples may remain pershoes which consists in assembling upon a last an upper and a' sole which hasa margin projectingbeyond the edgev of the last, pro-. gressively shaping the upper to the last and pressing it into theangle between the last and tlhe projecting sole margin, and driving a staple through the upper'into the sole,

after each shaping and pressing step, in such manner that the legs of. the staple extend into the sole beneath the last while the head last an upper and a sole which projects be? yond the edge of the last and progressively shaping the upper to the last and pcrma- .nently securing the upper and sole in lasted condition by staples of fine wire driven through the upper into the sole in titre angle between the last and the projecting portion of the sole, as the sha ing progresses, with the bodies of said step es arranged in a line in close proximity to the edge'ot the last.

91 That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in -assembling upon a last an upper and a sole which has a margin projecting beyond the bottom edge" of the last, progressively shaping the upper to the last and .forcing it into the angle between the lastand the sole, and permanently uniting the upper and the sole as the shaping progresses, by staples. driven through the upper into the sole in .a direction substantially transverse to the direction of the pull of the stretched upper, with the bodies of the staples parallel to saidbottom edge of the last.

,10. That improvement in'the art of making stitch down shoes which consists in assembling upon a last an upper and a sole which has a margin pro ecting beyond the bottom edge of the last, turning out the lower margin of the upper, progressively forcing the angle of the-upper into the an le between the last and the sole margin 551d permanently securing the upper to thesole by staples insertedalong the edge of the last, as the lasting progresses, with the planes determined by the greater dimen-.

sions of the staples extending parallel to said edge and in close proximity thereto, lay ng a, -welt upon the upper flange, and then umtmg the-welt, upper and sole with 1-1. That-improvement in the art of makingstitch-down shoes which consistsin as sembhng upon a "last an upper and assole wh h has a. 7 margin projecting. beyond the edge or the last, turning out the; lower marof the. upper, progressively. forcing. the

anglei' of the upper into the angle between the last and the sole margin and permanently securingtthe upper to the sole bye .staple driven through the upper into-the solo: in: said arfgle. after each ;f0rcing step,

t with the-body of the staple ina plane par,

p to the edge of the last and in close proxthereto and so inclined-to; the bottom 9.

welt, upper and sole with stitches. p

12. That improvement in the art of making show which consists in assembling upon a last an upper and a sole which has a margin pro- "jectingbeyond-the bpttom edge of the last,

imity to said bottom edge with thebodies ing stitch'down shoes which consists in as angle between' the last an progressively-forcingthe upper into the the projecting "isle and uniting the upper and the stile i-by staples driven through the upper intothe; sole, as the lasting progresses, in directions transver e;to the direction of pull of the stretched upper and in closevprox a welt upon the upp r flange and then unit ing the welt, upper nd sole with stitches.

'13. Thatimprovement in the art of male of the 'staplespara-lFl to said edge, laying sembling upon a last an upper and a sole which is provided'with -a shoulder substantially flush with the edge of the last and which has'a margin projecting beyond said :edge, turning out the lower margin of the its 'upper and fprogressively. forcing'the angle "of,=the-upper' into the angle between the shoulder and the-sole margin, permanently uniting the upperfand' the sole by staples inserted-in'said angles, as the lasting progresses, with the planes determined by the eater dimensions of said staples extendmg parallel to the edge of the last-and in close proximity thereto, and then uniting the upper and the'sole with st tches;

14. That improvement in the art of makingshoes which consists-in assembling upon upper and a sole which has a-mare last that the legs of' the staple exbeneath the last-, .layinga. welt' upon said upper margin, and then -unitinglthe projecting beyond the bottom edge of the last, turning out the lower edge of the upper, forcing thea-ngle of the'upper into the angle between the last and the sole margin in a step=hy step manner, and securing the upper to the sole after each of the aforementioned steps by an individual permanent fastening.

-15. That improvement the art of make I ing shoes which consists in assembling upon a last'annpper and a sole havinga project- ;mg'margm, turning out the loweredge. of the-upper, forcing the angle of-the upper into the angle between the last and the sole margin in a step-by-step manner and se-- curing the vertex of the upper angleinthe vertex of the'angleibetween the last and the sole margin after each of the aforemen tioned steps-by an individual fastening insorted in said vertices.

16, Thatimprovement in the art of maliin g'shoes which consists in assembling upon a last a l-upper and a sole which has a margin projecting beyond the bottom edge of the'last turning out the lower edge of the .upper, forcing the angle of the upper into the'vangle between the last and the'sole-margin in a step-by-step manner, and securingthe upper to the sole after each ofhthe aforenently uniting the upper to the sole, as the v shaping progresses, by staples inserted through the upper into the sole in close proximity to said bottom edge of the last with the bodies of the staples parallel to said edge. a i 18. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in molding the heel end of an upper and a counter to the shape oftheheel end of a last and providing upon said parts outturned flanges, assembling" upon a last said upper and counter and a sole whichhas a margin projecting beyond the bottom edge of the last, turning out the lower edge ofthe remaining portions of the upper, fitting the upper to the last by forc-" ing the angle of the upper into the angle between the last and the sole margin 1n a stepby-step manner and. permanently securing the upper to the sole after each of the aforementioned steps by a staple having its body parallel to the edge ofthe last and m'elose proximity theretow 19. That improvement in the art of making shoeswhieh consists in molding an upper and a counter to the shape of the heel endor a last and providing an outturned flange' on'each of said parts, assembling upon a last said upper and counter, and a sole WlllCh has a margin projecting beyond the bottom edge of the last, uniting the upper and counter at the back to the sole by a staple inserted through the upper and counter into the sole with the body of the staple parallel to the edge of the last and in close proximity thereto, turning out a flange upon the forepart of the upper, forcing the angle of the upper into the angle between the last and the sole margin upon one side of the last and securing it in lasted position by a staple inserted through the upper into the sole in substantially the same manner as the a -similar operation upon the other side of the last, a-nld then lasting the upper in the staple inserted at-the heel end, performing ;same manner about the remaining portions of the last.

20. That improvement in the art of mak-:

ing shoes which consists in molding the heel and toe ends of an upper to the shape of the correspondingportions of a last and providing upon said arts outturned flanges,

assembling upon a ast said upper and a Sole which has a margin projecting beyond the. bottom edge of the last, forcing the angle of the upper into the angle-between the 'lastand the sole margin in a step-by- .step manner and permanently securing the upperzto the sole after each of the aforementioned steps by a staple having its body parallel to the edge of thelast and in close .proximity thereto; 40

21. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in assembling upon 7 inner edge whereby a last an upper and a sole which has a mar gin projecting beyond the bottom edge of the last, turning out the lower edge of the upper, progressively shaping the upper to the last and forcing the angle of the upper into the angle between the last and the sole margin and permanently securing the a last an upper and a sole which has a margin projecting beyond the bottom edge of .the last, turning out thelower edge of the upper, forcing the angle of theupper into the angle between the last and the sole margin in a 'step-by-step manner, securing the upper to the sole after each of the aforementioned steps by a staple having its body parallel to the edge of the last and in close proximity thereto, trimming'back the edge of the upper from the edge of the sole, laying upon the outturned part of the upper a welt which is thicker at its outer edge than at its inner edge whereby it overhangs the trimmed back portion of the upper, and uniting the welt, upper and sole wit stitches. y

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence'of two subscribing witnesses.

.- ADAM H. PRENZEL.

Witnesses:

C. F. STILL,- L. W. RYAN. 

